Controller on or off after winterizing?

For city-water, you can leave it ON. After shutoff and blowout there’s no pressure; scheduled openings can help gravity-drain. For pump/well systems, I disable pump-start so the pump can’t run dry.

I run 50–60 PSI with high CFM. Volume clears the lines safely—no need to exceed that range.

Why is the drain plug left off or partially threaded?

If the main shut-off is weeping, water drains out through the plug rather than back into the system. Check in 24–72 hours; if it’s dripping, the shut-off should be replaced.

Sprinkler Winterization & Blowouts in Dearborn, MI

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I winterize across Dearborn—neighborhoods off Michigan Ave, Ford Rd, Outer Dr, Telegraph, and near The Henry Ford & Greenfield Village. Mixed-age systems are common, so I use 50–60 PSI with high CFM, short passes per zone, and I leave the drain plug off or partially threaded so any weeping main shut-off drains out.

Pricing

City Water — Cash/Check/Zelle

8z $75 • 10z $85 • 12z $95 • 14z $105 • 16z $115 • 18z $125 • 20z $135 • 22z $145

City Water — Online Payment

8z $85 • 10z $95 • 12z $105 • 14z $115 • 16z $125 • 18z $135 • 20z $145 • 22z $155

Pump/Well — Cash/Check/Zelle

10z $125 • 12z $135 • 14z $145 • 16z $155 • 18z $165 • 20z $175 • 22z $185 • 24z $195

Pump/Well — Online Payment

10z $135 • 12z $145 • 14z $155 • 16z $165 • 18z $175 • 20z $185 • 22z $195

How I Winterize (My Method)

Shut off & inspect — supply, backflow, drains/low points, zone order.
50–60 PSI + high CFM downstream of the backflow; volume moves water safely.
Short passes per zone — farthest first; ~60–120 sec to fine mist; pause between zones.
Backflow & drains — purge test cocks; leave the drain plug off or partially threaded so any weeping shut-off drains out.
Controller — City-water can stay ON; pump/well gets pump-start disabled.
Report — Paper Sprinkler Winterizing Report + text notes; check the drain in 24–72 hours. If it’s drip-drip, the shut-off needs replacement.

Sprinkler Winterizing Report — What I Document

Heads & lines: potential breaks/sunken heads; uneven mist.
Timer/controller: time/date, overlapping programs; pump-start disabled if applicable.
Valve boxes: standing water, messy splices, low spots.
Backflow & shut-off: pre-existing cracks on ball valves, body/test-cock condition.
Possible poppet/bonnet leaks: some only show under pressurized water (not air)—I’ll note suspects for spring.
Exposed piping & drains: missing caps, stuck drains, insulation tips.

Limits: I’m there to winterize, not pressure-test every component. Because we run air, not every issue will present now; spring start-up is the time to fully test and fix.

Local Notes for Dearborn

Corridors: Michigan Ave, Ford Rd, Outer Dr, Telegraph, Southfield Fwy (M-39).
Landmarks: The Henry Ford, Greenfield Village, Ford HQ.
ZIPs: 48120, 48124, 48126.

Mini Case Study

8-zone near Outer Dr & Oakwood kept weeping on the driveway side. Two quick passes at 50–60 PSI with high CFM; drain plug partially threaded; 48-hour check—dry; spring startup was normal.

FAQs

Controller on or off?

For city-water systems, it can stay ON. After shutoff/blowout there’s no pressure. For pump/well, I disable pump-start so the pump can’t run dry.

What PSI/CFM do you use?

50–60 PSI with high CFM—volume moves the water safely and quickly.

Why leave the drain plug loose?

If the main shut-off weeps, water drains out through the plug instead of back into the system. Check in 24–72 hours; if it’s dripping, replace the shut-off.